How to grow and care for Caladiums
Use a sharp knife to cut off the tuber, leaving at least one “eye” or bud for each piece – Dry the pieces for a few days to allow them to heal by developing a callus on the cut area.
Plant the tuber with the “eye” up in a sunny, well-draining area. The “eyes” should be one to two inches below the ground. Supplement the soil with rich, organic material. Try spacing the tubers a foot apart depending on the caladium variety and its expected mature size.
You can dig up caladium tubers when the temperature drops to save for the following growing season. Dividing these tubers is also the best way to propagate new caladiums. Here’s how:
Wintering
In the tropical south, you can leave tubers in the ground all year round. In the rest of the south, you have to dig them up in early fall if you want to replant next year. Remove any remaining leaves and roots. Leave the tubers to dry in a shady area for a few days. Place them in dry peat moss to store and keep them in a warm place (50°F to 60°F) until it’s time to replant.
Common pests and plant diseases
Caladiums are relatively pest and disease free but susceptible to caterpillars and aphids. Maintaining a healthy soil, sun and water balance helps prevent infestations. If you notice marks or holes in the foliage, treat them with insecticidal soap. This treatment should also help avoid mealybugs, mites, thrips and whiteflies. If there are only a few pests, try to remove them by hand. Deer and rabbits occasionally graze on caladiums.
Some diseases that affect caladium include fungal pathogens that infect the tubers, such as Rhizoctonia and Pythium species. Fungal infections like these, and blight, infect the soil and destroy the tuber.
